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Spruce grouse, "chickens" figure in my memories of more northerly places. The first time the wonder of spruce grouse, black hooded, sitting dark and immobile in the small snow wreathed black spruce of the boreal forest near Ethel Lake in the central Yukon. My daughter was almost 6, and lost her first tooth that day....A few years later, we were driving south in late August having taken the Alaska Ferry to Haines Alaska and driven down the Alaska highway to the junction with Highway 37. We started down the Stewart-Cassiar south toward the Skeena. Allen had a hankering to go fishing, and we pulled off at a place signed Wheeler Lake south about an hour from the Yukon border. Before he could catch anything, he somehow broke the tip of his rod. Frustrated, he noticed there were a number of young-of-the-year spruce grouse sitting fearlessly in the small black spruce and willows. He and Rose set to work with sticks and stones, and soon we had two spruce grouse to share....cooked up on our coleman stove with freshly picked delicious lactarius mushrooms, and a side of low-bush cranberry sauce. A delicious and memorable meal off the land that I still think of, decades later, whenever I drive by the sign that says "Wheeler Lake". This was before I came back to the Watson Lake area to work with Kaska Elders.....
Travelling with my Elder teacher Auntie Mida, one of the first Kaska sentences I learned to say was "Hligah dí’ ne gánesta" I saw one "chicken". Kaska usually talk about any animals they have seen when traveling, and ask travelers what they have seen. Probably in the days of more local travel this was useful, even necessary, information. Driving out to pick some berries on the trapline of another Elder teacher, we saw three or four grouse, but had no 22. I took out my camera to photograph the grouse, and Auntie Alice commented- "You want take picture, I want to eat them!" She also explained that "chickens" like thick jack-pine, but willow ptarmigan, another grouse-like bird that turns snowy white in winter, prefers willow.
I once saw a beautiful cock willow ptarmigan on the upper Skeena/Klappan divide down on the borders of Spatsizi park, with his brown summer mottling, and brilliant red eyebrows. I've also seen willows loaded with winter-white ptarmigan like partridges in a proverbial pear tree on the shore of Great Slave Lake in the Northwest Territories.
Alice is right; willow ptarmigan do indeed like willows, and roost there in the winter. In 1998 I spent some research time in Inuvik in the Mackenzie Delta region of the northwest Territories, a bit north of the Arctic Circle. My friend Rob and I drove down the Dempster to the Mackenzie River Ferry at Arctic Red (Tsiigehtchic) and dozens of striped summer plumage ptarmigan darted out of the alders and willows along the highway flank. Somehow we avoided hitting any..... While I was there in 1998 I also bought a beautiful print of a silk painting of ptarmigan (in their showy white winter plumage), looking very much like the ptarmigan I later saw myself on the shores of Slave Lake.
I came full circle on grouse and ptarmigan when I was visiting in Gitwangak on the Skeena River last February. I was working with a group of Elders and my friend Ruby discussing community health planning. Dinim Get, my long time teacher, asked if I had a name. He considered if he should give me the name Ay-aa'y, "ptarmigan", one of the names of his Lax Gibuu House.....